| Pruning |
| Always have a plan when pruning. Bad pruning is more detrimental to the tree
Isthan no pruning at all. Pruning of an established tree is chiefly done for minor
"maintenance. If extensive work is needed it is best to call in an arborist.
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There are fashions in tree pruningjust as there are in tree choices. We now know
at some popular pruning practices of the past are, in fact, very bad for the
health of your tree.
- You should not prune to limit a tree's size. Ifyou do, you chose the wrong tree
for the location; replace the tree with one that is the right size for the site.
- Never top a tree (cut back all the main branches to stubs). Topping doesn't
make a tree healthier or less prone to storm damage; in fact it does the opposite.
It leaves large, ugly stubs that slowly rot. The weak, whip like branches that
sprout at the end of the stub often break in storms. The appearance of the
i tree is permanently ruined.
- Don't try to force prune a tree into a shape contrary to its natural inclination;
you may be successful, but only temporarily. You'll have to repeat the process
as the tree attempts to overcome yourwork and return to its natural inclination.
- Painting tree wounds and the cut ends of branches used to be commonly
However, it doesn't promote faster healing and may actually encourage
disease in some instances.
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| As a general rule, pruning is done best during the dormant period, (late winter/
very early spring) just before growth resumes. You may prune during summer as
well. But summer pruning, because it reduces the foliage mass that is working to
supply energy to the tree, may slightly diminish vigor that year.
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Some reasons to get out your pruning tools:
- To improve the health of the tree. A tree needs adequate air, light and water to
flourish. Reducing crowding and removing dead branches allows the air, water
1and light to reach all parts of the tree more efficiently.
- To direct or control growth (shaping). Prune small branches about 1/4 inch
above an outward facing bud to direct new growth away from the interior
canopy.
- To remove suckers. Suckers are thin growth around the base of the trunk
- To eliminate low branches that may block a path
- To remove crossing limbs that can damage each other
- To remove dead, injured, weak, diseased or insect infested limbs. Watch for
these and remove promptly. These limbs pose a threat to the health of the
tree. They also cause harm when they fall. They can spread disease and insects
to nearby healthy trees.
- Branches that form a narrow "V" angle to the trunk are attached less strongly
than those that make a wider angle. They tend to break in storms. Whenever
possible, favor the wider-angled limbs and remove those with a narrow "V"
attachment.
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| Larger limbs (from wrist size upward) are heavy and need special attention. If
you try to cut through one with a single cut, it will likely break off before you
finish the cut. The limb may fall, tearing bark and wood off the remaining area.
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